The beauty of Morocco: from a surfer’s paradise to the peaks of the Atlas Mountains

This was already my second trip to admire the beauty of Morocco - and once again, I didn’t spend nearly as much time there as I would have liked. Still, even in just under two weeks, you can experience a lot: surf the longest wave in Africa, explore historic cities, and set off on a three-day trek through the Atlas Mountains.

Surfing and the endless wave in Imsouane

Imsouane is a small fishing town on Morocco’s west coast. Although fishing is still very much part of everyday life here, the streets and nearby beaches are now mostly filled with surfers from all over the world, drawn by the famous “longest wave in Africa.” And for good reason, Imsouane is a true paradise, and easily the best surfing spot I’ve ever visited.

Getting to Imsouane is relatively easy. I’ve traveled there from Agadir airport, where you can arrange a taxi right outside the terminal. The drive takes about two hours. If I remember correctly, the prices were clearly listed on a sign in the parking lot, so there was no need to negotiate. Easy peasy — the driver even had no problem stopping for lunch along the way so we wouldn’t go hungry after a long flight.

There are two main surf spots in Imsouane: The Bay and La Cathédrale. La Cathédrale is better suited for more advanced surfers, and since I only get on a surfboard every now and then - and usually feel like I’m starting from scratch each time - I chose the endless wave in The Bay. This right-hand wave is absolutely unreal. It can stretch up to 800 meters, and if you’re lucky, you can ride it for over a minute (not that I managed that…).

What makes it even better is that when the wave eventually pushes you toward the shore, you don’t have to paddle all the way back out. You simply grab your board, walk along the beach back to the takeoff point, paddle out a short distance to the lineup, and off you go again - riding across the bay once more. And if you miss a wave, it’s no problem to jump right back in.

And if you’re not a surfer, no worries. Imsouane is incredibly photogenic, has a friendly, relaxed atmosphere, plenty of great food, magical sunsets, and evening music in nearby surf houses. Even those who aren’t tempted by wobbling around on a board will happily enjoy a few days here.

The colors of Essaouira

If the ancient medinas of Marrakech, Rabat, or Fez feel a bit too chaotic for you, Essaouira might be the perfect compromise. Its streets are colorful and not nearly as crowded as in other cities, the scent of exotic spices is everywhere, and it felt like there were far fewer locals constantly vying for my attention.

Well… unless we count the barbers.When I arrived in Essaouira, my beard was a bit overgrown, so every second barber signaled for me to hop into their chair - promising they’d take good care of me. In the end, tempted by the idea of an “authentic experience,” I gave in and let one of them shave me. He did such a poor job (I had to point out missed spots three times) that I honestly wouldn’t recommend the experience to anyone. But maybe I just had bad luck!

The city boasts beautiful medieval fortifications, but I’d recommend the local fish market above all. It’s a real experience. You’ll see larger fishing boats unloading their catch, locals haggling over the most interesting fish, and if you’re a fan, you can enjoy a fresh mussel for just a few coins.

Following the footsteps of the Berbers in the Atlas Mountains

After sunny Essaouira, the plan was a multi-day trip through the Atlas Mountains - even though we weren’t aiming for the highest peaks. In Marrakech, we arranged a van (we were supposed to wait until it filled up, but since no one else showed up, we paid the driver a bit extra and set off at half capacity). Before long, we arrived in the town of Imlil, a starting point for countless treks throughout the mountain range.

We set off from Imlil early in the morning toward the Tachedirt Valley, surrounded by breathtaking panoramas. We hardly met anyone along the way until we reached a checkpoint, where a local “guard” asked for our passports so he could photograph them and save all the details on his phone - something I wasn’t exactly comfortable with. Data protection clearly wasn’t his strong suit, so after a fairly long discussion, he settled for having the most important details dictated to him and, with a promise that we wouldn’t cross the mountain pass (ahem…), let us continue.

In a small village in the valley, we stayed overnight in a gîte (the local term for a Berber brick house). For dinner, our hosts prepared undercooked chicken — which we unfortunately realized too late - resulting in a long night spent hovering over a bowl. By morning things had improved slightly, so we crossed the pass after all, walked through picturesque Berber villages, spent the night in one of them, and eventually made our way to Setti Fatma.

Getting lost in Marrakech

Marrakech can be a bit of a madhouse at times, but it’s absolutely worth experiencing. Especially as a street photographer, I slightly regretted setting aside only one day for it. I could wander the narrow alleys of the medina all day long and never get bored — there’s always something happening around every corner.

The attention of local vendors can feel a bit too much at times, but after a while you get used to it, learn to say a firmer no, and save your energy for places where you actually want to stop, chat, and maybe buy something :)

Kočka sedící na pultu s rybami